Sunday 29 March 2009

The Yew Tree














.:kentandkentish:.
Which? Good Food Guide 2009
Here’s a place to test the mettle of your Sat Nav. Found down narrow Kentish lanes, just seven miles from Dover, this pretty country pub now puts food and wine top of the agenda. A table-filled terrace leads into an intimate bar – serving local real ales – while an up-to-date style of wooden floorboards and undressed tables typifies the look in the light dining room. Ben Williams used to be head pastry chef at The Square in London (see entry) and while his cooking here is less intricate (and prices commensurately lower), a certain level of high-gloss proficiency is not lacking.

His menus keep things within sensible bounds, however, and are built around carefully considered combinations such as a textbook onion tarte Tatin or a soft-boiled duck egg with smoked eel ‘soldiers’. Asparagus, broad beans and peas make congenial partners for a main course of new season’s Kentish lamb, sauced with red wine, or there may be roasted sea bream with crushed new potatoes, Thai-spiced shellfish and vegetable spaghetti. Finish with vanilla rice pudding and poached rhubarb. Service is friendly and efficient. The wide-ranging wine list, compiled by business partner and wine merchant Ben Bevan, concentrates on quality without showiness or fanfares. Bottles are picked with total assurance and an eye for value at every level. Prices start at £12.50.
.:kentandkentish:.
A: Barfreston, Dover, Kent, England CT15 7JH
M: Google Map
W: www.yewtree.info
T: (01304) 831000
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Sunday 22 March 2009

Granville













.:kentandkentish:.
Which? Good Food Guide 2009
Spacious and comfortable with a laid back ambience, this solid country pub is well matched by a thoughtful blackboard menu that eschews culinary somersaults in favour of a bedrock of well-executed modern British ideas.

The kitchen relies on a network of local suppliers, but the repertoire is wider in scope, with prosciutto and artichokes rubbing shoulders with a never-off-the-menu crispy duck, smoked chilli salsa and sour cream. Descriptions are refreshingly to-the-point, producing on one dreary winter’s day hearty garlic and thyme-roasted mushrooms on tapenade toast, then braised pork belly with crackling and apple sauce. Fish may be handled quite robustly, too, as when a whole gilthead bream is stuffed with garlic and rosemary and served with purple sprouting broccoli and roast potatoes.

There’s also a good home-made foccacia and desserts such as a ‘perfect’ flourless chocolate cake. Drinkers have their own bar and there’s a blackboard wine list with reasonable choice. House wines start at £11.50. Related to the Sportsman at Seasalter, Whitstable.

.:kentandkentish:.
restaurant-guide.com
My wife and I lunched at the Granville today on spec and had one of the best meals we've eaten since we moved to Kent two years ago. Ambience as already described is cheerful and knowledgeable service and excellent food.

Ah, the food - my wife had pea and mint soup to start, with the flavours clear and vibrant; I had Granville's own bresaola, the best I've ever eaten - perfectly prepared, robustly marinated, and served with shavings of parmesan: you'd better enjoy strong flavours. She had coq au vin as a main course; I had smoked haddock in a mustard grain sauce with crispy, floury potatoes, boiled and briefly deep fried? Both dishes came with cabbage strips, which were crunchy and tasty in their own right - both triumphs in their separate ways. We have some good Gaggia espresso afterwards, too. Oh, forgot to mention the onion bread and fried pumpkin seeds served as an amuse-bouche before the meal - both perfectly done.

It's a Shepherd Neame pub, which is no bad thing in my view, as they're the best brewers around - I had early bird hop ale and my wife a glass of Chilean merlot, which she thought was fully up to standard. The Granville has an open, airy and down-to-earth pub ambience with log fires, games for the kiddies and newspapers for the grown-ups, and on a Tuesday - they don't serve food on Mondays - the clientele was of a certain age, as indeed we are. It's in both the Good Food Guide and the AA Good Pub Guide, with comments on it not being that inexpensive. Quite correctly, the Granville doesn't aim at ‘fine dining’, but judging by the food, it's worth every penny. It’s highly recommended.
(Reviewed by John N L Morrison 10 March 2009)
.:kentandkentish:.
AA Pub Guide
Named after the Tudor warship, the Granville is a handsome solid building firmly anchored in the ancient village of Lower Hardres, just a five-minute drive from Canterbury city centre. With ample parking, a patio and large beer garden at the rear where summer barbecues take place, this Shepherd Neame pub is an ideal family venue, and dogs too are made welcome.

Nevertheless this is not a place for pub grub. The short but lively menu is designed for sophisticated tastebuds, offering for starters the likes of rock oysters with shallot vinegar, smoked local wigeon (a small wild duck) with mustard fruits, and antipasti. Main courses always comprise three meat and three fish dishes: slow-roast Waterham Farm chicken with truffle cream sauce, and Dungeness brill fillet braised in Macvin and morels are two examples. There is no children's menu as such, but portions from the main menu can be served where appropriate.
.:kentandkentish:.
squaremeal.co.uk
F
rom the same people behind the Sportsman, this modern gastropub is one of the best eating & drinking options in the Canterbury area. There’s a pub bar dispensing Shepherd Neame ales, a leather sofa filled-snug & a main dining room with an open-to-view kitchen.

The blackboard menu is short & to the point, fervent in its dedication to local & seasonal raw materials – so expect the likes of smoked local goose breast & mustard fruits, tender Godmersham venison with chocolate sauce & a superb coq au vin. Nice touches include outstanding homemade focaccia & simple desserts such as poached pear with vanilla ice cream. There’s no doubting the quality of the raw materials & the skill & ambition in the kitchen & it’s all backed up by good, casual service & a decent wine list.
.:kentandkentish:.
Gourmet Britain
Although still a proper ‘local’, this pub is run by the same team who have the Sportsman at Whitstable (q.v.) – and is worth a detour if wishing to eat in the area. You’ll find wooden farmhouse-style tables and their food offerings displayed on a blackboard; and while the cooking might be called ‘homely’ in presentation, not many people eat at home at quite this standard – even their excellent home-made breads are not to be missed.

Expect the likes of ‘Smoked Mackerel with Potato Salad and Horseradish’; ‘Locally Smoked Widgeon Breast with Herb Salad and Mustard Fruits’ and ‘A plate of Bresaola’ (thinly-sliced cured beef) to begin. Maybe ‘Crispy Duck with Sour Cream and Chili Sauce’; ‘Pork Belly with Crackling & Apple Sauce’ or ‘Gilt-Head Bream with Rosemary and Garlic’ or seasonal game for something more substantial. Desserts include ‘Crème Brulée’; ‘Tart Tatin’, home-made sorbets and the like.
.:kentandkentish:.
A: Street End, Lower Hardres, Kent, England CT4 7AL 
M: 
Google Map 
T: (01227) 700402 

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Wednesday 18 March 2009

The Sportsman










.:kentandkentish:.
"Simply excellent: go, eat, smile." Man of Kent
.:kentandkentish:.
To find The Sportsman, you need to trek out of Whitstable, a couple of miles across the bleak mudflats to Seasalter. The pub may look rather weather-beaten from the outside, but the views from the beach and sea wall are impressive – in a blustery, bracing kind of way.

Inside, all is warm, cheerful and cosy, with bare boards, plain wooden tables and a few local landscape photos adding a touch of colour. The place has a genuine pub atmosphere, although everyone is here for the food these days.

Chef Steve Harris is happy to take inspiration from top London restaurants, but the results are very much his own and he has picked up a Michelin star for his efforts. There is plenty of self-reliant enterprise at work here: Steve cures his own hams, churns his own butter and even produces his own sea salt along the way. Local fish gets a good airing on the daily blackboard menu in the shape of rock oysters with slices of hot chorizo, poached smoked haddock with curried carrot sauce, braised brill fillet with mussel tartare and the like.

Meat eaters could focus on satisfying dishes such as coq au vin, crispy duck with smoked chilli salsa and sour cream and braised pork belly stuffed with black pudding and crackling. Those with a sweet tooth are likely to revel in rhubarb sorbet with burnt cream or jasmine tea junket with rosehip syrup and breakfast crunch. Tasting menus (Tue-Fri lunch and dinner) are worth exploring, and the wine list is full of interesting tipples at keen prices.
.:kentandkentish:. 
There’s a lot to admire about Steve Harris’s cooking. He has developed his own style which is a sophisticated form of the new no-frills British cooking – curing his own hams, churning his own butter, even making his own sea salt – while working with local farms to produce first-rate pork, lamb and chicken. The pub, too, has its own style: tucked away in marsh and farm land a couple of miles from touristy Whitstable, it’s a large, shabby building, full of light and big plain wooden tables.

But with the kitchen rising a good couple of notches both in scope and quality of cooking, the Sportsman must now be treated as a serious restaurant, albeit one where ordering at the bar is de rigueur and napkins remain resolutely paper. The short blackboard menu offers an intriguing array of dishes, from smoked mackerel on Bramley apple jelly with soda bread, or perfect pork terrine to some fine and original cooking in main courses, with proper appreciation of the importance of flavour: the combination of a smoked herring roe sauce with a perfectly timed fillet of brill ‘was inspired’, and reporters continue to endorse the never-off-the menu crispy duck with chilli salsa, sour cream and ‘excellent roast potatoes’. Desserts, no less inventive, include rhubarb sorbet served with burnt cream or a strawberry ice lolly with cake milk and elderflower foam. Service is laid back; house wines are £11.95.
.:kentandkentish:. 
As well as being a proper ‘local’, with views over the surrounding marshes - and very popular with walkers - this pub (run by the same team as the Granville at Lower Hardres) offers top-quality food. Don't be put off by the rather battered look - this comes from being so close to the sea. But once inside, you’ll find scrubbed pine tables, bare floorboards and local artwork – all giving a pleasant rustic feel.

Food is sourced locally, whenever possible, and you’ll find this chalked-up on a board. Lighter dishes or starters include the likes of ‘Bresaola’ (thinly-sliced cured beef); ‘Ham Terrine’; home-smoked Eel and of course Oysters in one way or another (perhaps with hot Chorizo).

For something more substantial, shades of Nico Ladenis with ‘Braised Fillet of Brill with Vin Jaune and Morels’; ‘Crispy Duck with Smoked Chili Salsa and Sour Cream’; ‘Braised Shoulder of Salt-Marsh Lamb’ or seasonal game. Fish is always a strong suit. Desserts might include ‘Crème Brulée’, 'Brioche with Strawberries'; ‘Chocolate Tart’ home-made sorbets and the like. Their home-made breads aren’t to be missed
.:kentandkentish:. 
Although it's not far from trendy Whitstable, Seasalter seems a hundred miles from the bustling Kentish town. The Sportsman, hidden away at the far end of the village on the fringes of the marshes, appears desolate & run down at first glance - but ignore the shabby exterior. Inside, the coastal light sweeps through an airy room with scrubbed tables decorated with jars of fresh wildflowers.

Fresh-baked breads are brought to diners while they wait for their meals, & the malty taste of a delicious soda bread hints at pleasures to come. Enormous oysters - served au naturel or jazzed up with hot, spicy slices of chorizo - are a great way to kick off the meal. Mains might include a fork-tender belly of pork atop a mound of creamy mash or simply seared fish fresh from the day's catch - it depends on what's in season that day. Leave room for one of the superb puddings.
.:kentandkentish:. 
A: Faversham Road, Seasalter, Whitstable, Kent, CT5 4BP
T: (01227) 273370
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Tuesday 10 March 2009

Froggies at the Timber Batts

















A: School Lane, Bodsham, Kent, England TN25 5JQ
M: Google Map
W: thetimberbatts.co.uk
E: post@thetimberbatts.co.uk
T: (01233) 750237
.:kentandkentish:. 
France meets Kent at this off-the-beaten track pub on the North Downs where beams and open fires are matched by food that wears a striped jersey and a beret. The cooking may not be innovative but ingredients are fresh and locally sourced.

All the usual suspects such as French onion soup, duck leg confit and beef bourguignon are present and correct, but there are also good things like stuffed mussels and roasted rack of Romney Marsh lamb. Locally shot game gets a good showing, and there’s simpler pub food such as first-class egg and chips served alongside croque-monsieur in the bar. An (almost) all-French wine list opens with house wines at £15, produced by the owner’s cousin in the Loire Valley. Good real ales, too.
.:kentandkentish:. 
'An excellent find,' raved one Mobile Food Guide user after negotiating the network of narrow country lanes that leads to Froggies at the Timber Batts - a truly delightful country pub/restaurant in the lovely Kent countryside.

A warm feeling of friendly hospitality immediately hits you as you enter the cosy red-brick and low-beamed fifteenth-century building. Menus are chalked up on blackboards and the choice varies from day to day. Ingredients - from seasonal game to Romney Marsh lamb - are sourced locally where possible and the kitchen deals in traditional French cuisine with plenty of long-term favourites including superb stuffed mussels, confit of duck salad, rack of lamb with herbs, and fillet of beef with Roquefort sauce (a signature dish).

A separate slate of desserts promises even more comforting delights in the shape of profiteroles, tarte Tatin and Froggies crème brûlée special (six different fruits plus a sorbet). To go with the food is a quality list of French wines (the house wine is actually grown and produced by Joel Gross's cousin in the Loire Valley). If you want to indulge in a bit more Gallic atmosphere, don't miss the French market that is held outside Froggies on the last Sunday of each month.
.:kentandkentish:. 
Chef Joel Gross built up a great reputation at Froggie's Restaurant in Wye, so when he headed deeper into the Kent countryside to the remote, 15th-century Timber Batts, he knew they would follow. The place went from being just another rural pub to one with an authentic French restaurant attached. The beamed and timbered bars have blazing log fires, one in a huge inglenook, and comfortable seating. The restaurant has its own fireplace and old pine tables topped with candles. Well placed for peaceful walks.
.:kentandkentish:. 
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The Fitzwalter Arms











A: The Street, Goodnestone, Kent, England CT3 1PJ
M: Google Map
W: thefitzwalterarms.co.uk
E: thefitzwalterarms@gmail.com
T: (01304) 840303
.:kentandkentish:.
The Fitzwalter Arms is the hub of village life, attracting both locals and tourists visiting the gardens of neighbouring Godmersham Park, while its no-nonsense simplicity extends to a rustic daily menu that seldom misses a beat. With around five dishes per course, each usually a demonstration of loyalty to fresh local produce, the food is rough round the edges – nothing fey – but cooked with intelligence and care.

Brawn with parsley, red onion and caper salad, for example, then black bream fillet with squid and gremolada, are appealing choices, or there could be a richly flavoured, traditional coq au vin, locally reared pork or seasonal game. Treacle tart and raw Jersey cream makes a good finish. House wine is £11.95.
.:kentandkentish:.
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The Dove












.:kentandkentish:.
Which? Good Food Guide
The address suggests picture-postcard Olde England, as befits the old village pub, but the posh-plated, smart restaurant-style cooking is at odds with the scuffed floorboards, simple wooden tables and very casual service.

Corn-fed chicken and foie gras terrine with Armagnac prunes (£6.25) and fillet of sea bass with brown shrimp and confit of red peppers (£16.95) are well-prepared, if pricey, à la carte offerings. Go for lunch and look to the blackboard for confit duck and bavette of beef (both £10) or generously filled baguettes. House wine £14. Closed for Sun dinner and all day Monday.
.:kentandkentish:.
The Mobile Food Guide
Is it a pub? Is it a restaurant? No, it's The Dove – a splendidly rustic, ivy-clad Kentish hostelry just off the A229 at Dargate, a pretty village between Faversham and Whitstable. Inside, it looks like an honest local watering hole, with a maze of little rooms, bare-boarded floors, panelling and scrubbed tables; there are Shepherd Neame ales on tap and a blackboard menu of hearty, French-inspired food that hits the button.

Phillip MacGregor has recently taken over the reins as chef/proprietor (he trained here as a budding chef during the 1990s) and early reports are promising to say the least: 'I have not tasted such good food in a long time and the atmosphere was friendly and inviting', raved one Mobile Food Guide user. In fine weather, there's also a wonderful garden with glorious views.

The kitchen delivers easy light bites along the lines of roast pork and Bramley apple baguettes, croque madame and even Welsh rarebit together with more ambitious offerings such as seared scallops with black pudding and parsnip purée, confit of lamb with anchovy crushed potatoes, and fillet of sea bass with grilled potatoes, slow-roast tomatoes and fennel ceviche.

.:kentandkentish:.
A: Plum Pudding Lane, Dargate, Kent, England ME13 9HB
M: Google Map
T: (01227) 751360
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Monday 9 March 2009

Thackeray's










A: 85 London Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent, England TN1 1EA
T: (01892) 511921
.:kentandkentish:.
"Busy plates." Man of Kent
.:kentandkentish:.
Novelist William Makepeace Thackeray once lived in this listed Georgian house on Tunbridge Wells common – and there’s a blue plaque to prove it. The building has done duty as a top-class restaurant for many years, and current chef/co-proprietor Richard Phillips is not about to let its reputation slip. The interior has a cool, elegant feel, with ancient low ceilings and shiny floorboards blending with subtle colours and more up-to-the-minute design flourishes; outside is a seductive Japanese terrace garden for tranquil al fresco meals.

Highly polished modern French food is the order of the day, whether you pick from the carte or the midweek ‘menu du jour’. Fish from the South Coast ports is generally a good bet. The possibilities might range from an assiette of hand-dived scallops with creamed corn, cauliflower purée and chive beurre blanc to medallions of monkfish with butternut and sage risotto and spiced red wine dressing. Fillet of Sussex Breed beef is there for local meat aficionados, while Old Black Spot pork with creamed cabbage, apple compote, ginger and clove jus points up the kitchen’s loyalties to traditional breeds.

A sharing plate of desserts brings all manner of sweet delights for two to drool over – otherwise apricot soufflé with milk chocolate and Grand Marnier ice cream might tempt. Thackeray’s Selection provides a choice of two dozen eclectic wines from £13.95 (£4.50 a glass), and the full list balances French regional classics with some lively stuff from other countries.
.:kentandkentish:.
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Apicius

A: 23 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent, England TN17 3HE
M: Google Map
W: restaurant-apicius.co.uk
T: (01580) 714666

.:kentandkentish:.
On the main street running through Cranbrook this intimate restaurant is a prime destination, attracting faithful regulars through its high standards, professionalism and warmth. Tim Johnson showcases fine raw materials, many of them local, on his short, set-priced menus and a high degree of technical competence suffuses everything.

Roast scallops (in a smoked-bacon brochette) are timed to a nicety, their juicy sweetness pointed by the bacon and a slick of light vanilla cream, while a main course brill with roasted artichokes, garlic, tomatoes and white onion purée is ‘really meaty and devastatingly fresh’, the timing and technique effortlessly passing muster. Robustness characterises other dishes: a starter of ‘three lovely lamb faggots’ with pea purée and tomato jus, or a main course of ‘perfect, tender’ roast squab pigeon on Puy lentils with pommes mousseline and a little jug of foie gras sauce.

Similarly, desserts are not afraid to mobilise challenging juxtapositions, as in a well thought-out roasted banana and liquorice caramel pannacotta with a ‘stunning’ lavender granita, or three ways with apple – the sweetness of the Tatin and cider cream anchored by a sharp-tasting green apple sorbet. A carefully considered wine list offers good value. Prices start at £17.
.:kentandkentish:.
A simple modern makeover has freshened up this unassuming, timber-clad, shop-fronted restaurant, which now mixes charming old beams & floorboards with fashionable high-backed dining chairs & white-clothed tables. Booking is essential, but one of the joys of this small-scale operation is its telling mix of unstuffy, friendliness & highly accomplished food. Tim Johnson has worked with the likes of Nico Ladenis & Andrew McLeish (Chapter One, Locksbottom) & his cooking adheres to a classic French blueprint.

Simplicity is the key to his refined, unfussy style, with tip-top local & seasonal produce defining his credit crunch-friendly, fixed-price menus – witness dishes such as roast John Dory fillet partnered by Nicola potatoes, oven-roast tomatoes & baby spinach, or classic tarte tatin accompanied by a green apple sorbet & cider cream.
.:kentandkentish:.
Its founder, Tim Johnson, was personal chef to Paul Getty Jr, so knows about the appetites of rich men. His nosh house has gained quite a reputation and, in January, its first Michelin star. Entering, you are struck by its size: tiny, with only nine tables. Even if he hired the entire restaurant, there wouldn't be room for the giant Monty Python character that explodes after indulging in a final "wafer-thin mint". With plain walls, minimalist furniture and industrial RSJs holding the place upright, it hardly looks like a sensual haven for gourmets.

Oh, but the food. Dear reader, you must dine here. Not that Apicius would recognise much of the tuck. The engaging front of house, who doubles as Mrs Johnson, has one of the earliest surviving editions of the Apicius cook book and informs us that it is full of such Roman delicacies as "stuffed field mouse". Johnson's locally sourced food, by contrast, should be the model for country restaurants. The better ones are often overly fussy, while the rest talk about "mains" and "a white wine" and even dare call "dinner" something that arrives pre-cooked in a van.

Not Apicius. Diana tucks into deep-fried sweetbreads with lambs lettuce and the best celeriac mash either of us have tried. My roast scallops and smoked bacon brochette with linguini is nearly as good, if let down a smidgeon by a bland vanilla cream sauce. If anything, the entrées are better. Diana's steamed fillet of black bass, confit pink fir apples, braised fennel and basil cream sauce has crispy skin, yet the fish is succulent. I crack on with slow roast shoulder of pork and creamed potato, the caramelised apple sitting atop Savoy cabbage. The pork is so tender that it falls from the fork. In a comic touch, more pork is disguised in what looks like a fish finger dive-bombing the mash. These spuds, like the celeriac, are so good I'm about to lick the plate, until Diana gives me the kind of kick that has put Arsenal's Eduardo out of action for the rest of the football season and beyond.

And so to pud. Another custom in some of the classier country restaurants is to sprinkle icing sugar, chuck on a sprig of mint and serve something with chocolate on a huge plate, as if this were a dish worthy of the Ivy. Johnson's experience toiling for Gary Rhodes and Nico Ladenis means there are no such calumnies here. Each pudding is an art work, while tasting like a work of modern gastronomy. The apple tatin with cider cream comes with a sorbet that could have been made from Kentish apples picked that morning. Everything is slipping down so swimmingly that we are even diverted by a fabulous cheese menu, highlighted by a groundbreaking soft British Tunworth.

What really impresses about Apicius is that Johnson conjures these masterworks without help. He even does the washing up. And Mrs J jollies along with just one waitress. Unlike the girth of the original Apicius, this Apicius is slimline: the perfect riposte to rustic restaurateurs who claim they don't have the staff to serve scoff that might be mildly edible.

The other wonder is price: two-course lunches for £20, three-course dinners for £29.50. Hence you must book six weeks in advance for weekends. True, bills rise thanks to the brief but finely judged wine list: we sample exquisite half bottles of Pouilly Fumé and a 2006 Montrachet. Two criticisms: with food to sigh for, you would expect a room less clinical. Oh, and to attack the pastry in the apple tatin you don't need a fork, but a pneumatic drill. That apart, even Apicius would be proud to have this restaurant bear his weighty name.
.:kentandkentish:.
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Hotel du Vin & Bistro

A: Crescent Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 2LY
M: Google Map
W: hotelduvin.com
E: info@tunbridgewells.hotelduvin.com
F: (01892) 512044
T: (01892) 526455

.:kentandkentish:.
Which? Good Food Guide
The Tunbridge Wells outpost of this successful bistro, wine bar and hotel chain, which extends in a graceful arc from Brighton to Glasgow, is a rather grand sandstone Georgian mansion. It runs to the same level of brisk effectiveness as the other branches, and the menu offers the group style of modern brasserie cooking, rendered by Paul Nixon with some flair.

A salad of black pudding and bacon with a boiled egg makes a nice late breakfast at any time of day, or you might opt for Thai fishcakes with chilli butter. A list of simple classics such as fish pie or chargrilled rib-eye steak with garlic butter and chips buttresses the more elaborate main-course offerings, such as pan-roasted grey mullet with caramelised swede purée and pancetta. Vegetarians might choose artichoke and pesto gnocchi, while the naughty-but-nice dessert approach makes comprehensive use of chocolate and toffee.

Wines are as extensive and alluring as they are throughout the chain. The average price might feel high, but there is actually plenty below £25. House French at £14.50 kicks things off, but there is so much else to explore that it would seem unadventurous to stick there.
.:kentandkentish:.
AA Restaurant
This imposing 18th-century building has been transformed into a contemporary boutique hotel by the hugely respected Hotel du Vin chain, with stylish, comfortable accommodation and a tastefully designed bar and bistro. The latter draws discerning diners with its inspired contemporary menu, which successfully balances modern dishes with simple classics.

Using the very best, carefully selected local produce, you might begin with potted shrimps with balsamic croûton or salmon and haddock fishcake with chilli butter, and then move on to pot-roasted guinea fowl with herb mash, or confit pork belly with cabbage fondue and caramelised apple jus. Desserts take in a classic apple tarte Tatin with clotted cream and a more ambitious thyme mousse with roasted plums. Excellent wine list.
.:kentandkentish:.
AA Hotel
This impressive Grade II listed building dates from 1762, and as a princess, Queen Victoria often stayed here. The spacious bedrooms are available in a range of sizes, beautifully and individually appointed, and equipped with a host of thoughtful extras. Public rooms include a bistro-style restaurant, two elegant lounges and a small bar.
.:kentandkentish:.
Information Britain
The Hotel du Vin is a perfect base for exploring this historic spa town and the surrounding West Kent and Sussex countryside, for holding a small meeting or function, or just dropping in for lunch or dinner. Quality food cooked simply with the freshest local ingredients at sensible prices - that is the Bistro's philosophy.

In the summer, lunch on the terrace overlooking Calverley is a special treat. And wine is, of course, an important element of the hotel with each bedroom being sponsored by a celebrated wine house. The wine list offers carefully selected bottles at good value for money. Private tasting sessions can be organised with prior notice, and wine dinners are held at the hotel on a regular basis.

The 36 individually decorated bedrooms feature superb beds made up with Egyptian cotton linen, CD players, trouser presses, mini-bars and satellite television. The bathrooms, meanwhile, boast power showers, oversized baths, robes and fluffy towels. Above all, at Hotel du Vin, you are assured of a warm welcome.
.:kentandkentish:.
Gourmet Britain
Situated in a splendid Grade II listed building, dating back to the mid 18th century, which more than once housed Queen Victoria. The dining room's decorated with wine pictures and hung with dried hops, giving a romantic atmosphere. Here, chef Matt Green-Armytage offers the likes of Seared Pigeon Breast with roasted Pine Kernels, Deep-fried Goats' Cheese in a Macadamia Crust and Seared Scallops with roasted Celeriac Purée and Gremolata among the starters. Perhaps Pan-fried Turbot with Cauliflower and Chorizo Risotto, Confit of Duck Leg with Pak Choi and Red Wine Jus, and Rump of Lamb with Ratatouille and Olive Mash among the mains. Perhaps finish with Gooseberry Fool with Lime Sorbet, Honey-roasted Figs with Goats' Cheese Ice Cream or Farmhouse Cheese, in peak condition.
.:kentandkentish:.
Squaremeal
The imposing building, ‘creaky & atmospheric rooms’, including a restaurant that’s ‘wonderfully decorated’ with modern British food & ‘fantastic’ wine list, make this Tunbridge Wells’s most stylish hotel. As with others in this upscale group, the kitchen follows a common approach – the Mediterranean spiced with a bit of salsa with paupiette of salmon, avocado salsa and gazpacho sauce, roast rump of lamb, wilted spinach and tapenade jus, going down a treat with the Hermès-scarf brigade.
.:kentandkentish:.
Mobile Food Guide
Like many of the sites chosen by the Hotel du Vin group, the Tunbridge Wells outlet occupies a landmark building - in this case an eighteenth-century, Grade II-listed sandstone mansion that once played host to the young Queen Victoria. These days, an air of clubby exclusivity and easy-going luxury pervades the place. The bistro dining room has its own special character with flickering candles on dark wooden tables and walls festooned with apt wine pictures; there are lovely views across Calverley Park from the terrace, and guests can play boules if they wish.

The menu follows a trusted formula, with 'Simple Classics' like Morecambe Bay potted shrimps and char-grilled ribeye steak with béarnaise sauce augmenting a line-up of dishes like seared scallops with roasted celeriac purée and gremolata, confit of duck with pack choi and red wine jus, and lemon mousse layered with blueberry compote. The wine list is a real corker - as you might expect from the Hotel du Vin group - and sommeliers are always on hand to guide you through the fascinating assortment of top-class bottles from around the globe.
.:kentandkentish:.
The Telegraph (12-Feb-2000)
Readers, my sense of adventure is wilting. I am fed up with hotels that serve rancid dinners, have strange plumbing arrangements and in whose bathrooms lurk bars of soap with pubic hairs attached. Where better to find good food, exemplary plumbing and, hopefully, a touch of glamour, I ask myself, than in a Georgian sandstone building in Tunbridge Wells - or Royal Tunbridge Wells as it's become behind my back?

Oh, the excitement on finding the Hotel du Vin & Bistro and slithering our car into the last space in its car park out front. Oh, the pleasure of walking through its magnificent porticoed porch into a handsome hall with soaring ceiling, rugs on its dark wood floor and a love-seat. And oh, what consternation, on giving our name to the chap at reception, to see a certain confusion dawn. "But you've already checked in!" "No, just arrived." "But you've gone up to your room!" "No. We're right here." The visitors book is brought. There it is, in black and white. Our name - but different writing, different London address. "Please wait a moment . . . "

It's sorted in a trice. We and our bags are taken via an old-fashioned lift to what's almost certainly a better room than the one they first thought of - large, uncluttered and modern, with sand-coloured linen curtains, dark-green-painted furniture and chunky old-fashioned radiators . . . oh, and a couple of armchairs complete with standard lamp to read by. Very stylish, except for those framed posters of Swiss mountain scenes that transport one straight back to the Seventies. Click. Being the Hotel du Vin, the rooms are sponsored by wine-makers and as ours is called Swiss Wine Colours . . . well, we worked it out eventually. In the bathroom (almost as big) sits a claw-leg bath accompanied by piles of towels, bathrobes and their cosseting, own label soap - "aromatherapy relaxing body bar", it's called - which smells wonderful.

Downstairs, in one of the large, dimly lit sitting-rooms, its door open to the comings and goings in the hall, my husband, immersed in a huge armchair, keeps muttering: "This is delightful." And so it is - there's a great atmosphere. A member of staff is on hand at once. What would we like to drink? As always - not quite always - I ask for Campari. "Fresh orange juice?" "Of course." The menu offers "freshest local ingredients cooked simply in modern bistro style". Excellent. I plump for scallop and pepper tart with chive vinaigrette, and sea bass and vegetable langoustine salad with lemon-grass dressing to follow. Emerging from his dream world, my husband opts for monkfish and skate terrine with crispy whitebait - "Can't resist those" - and grilled tuna with braised aubergines.

As this is the Hotel du Vin, they major on wine. They have a sommelier. Dmitri is young, French and dead keen. "Very sorry to keep you waiting," he says (he hasn't) and we're soon deep into the merits of this wine as opposed to that wine. He sure knows his stuff and we get the distinct impression we "could do better" with our choice as, oh-so-charmingly, he tries to steer us from dry white to very dry white.

Our corner table in the bistro is perfect; so, too, is the lighting, a shade above dim. I like the wooden floors, the precisely arranged posters and pictures and the traditional, round polished tables with wrought ironwork beneath. And the food's right up our street. My husband's crispy whitebait are arranged invitingly around the terrine. My scallop tart is wonderfully tasty, the pastry thin and crisp. His tuna gets the thumbs-up. So does the sea bass, with lots of plump, tender langoustines lurking among the vegetables. Two can't-resist extras are sugar snap peas and some beautifully thin chips. Puddings are just as inspired - my husband spends ages sniffing the Calvados fumes rising from his apple feuilleté. "Go on, eat it!" I say.

So . . . Hotel du Vin is every bit as professional and glamorous as I'd hoped. In our room, everything's been thought of: the bed's hugely comfortable; there's a radio and CD player in the wardrobe; fresh coffee and cafetière in a cupboard. "The shower's like a monsoon," reports my husband, while I nearly get lost in that huge bath. For breakfast there are lots of really good croissants and coffee, although my husband comments on the lack of muesli - "Very bistro-ish, I'd have thought" - and wishes he'd been consulted about his cooked breakfast before it arrived in all its glory.
.:kentandkentish:.
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Wallett's Court Country House Hotel
















A:
Westcliffe, Dover, Kent CT15 6EW
M: Google Map
W: wallettscourt.com
E:
stay@wallettscourt.com
F: (01304) 853430
T: (01304) 852424

.:kentandkentish:.
It may seem like Gavin Oakley’s family hotel has been around forever, but that’s not to say it’s dated. The seventeenth-century farmhouse may have a certain historical gravitas (the estate figures in the Domesday Book), but it is run as a modern country-house set up. Steve Harvey’s food is modern, too, but not aggressively so, its backbone of fairly conservative dishes enlivened by a few surprise elements, such as pomegranate molasses and ras el hanout with chargrilled quail. Timings and seasoning do not please all reporters, but successes have included venison loin with juniper, blackberry, port jus and bitter chocolate, and herb-crusted salmon with a julienne of leeks and carrots and champagne velouté sauce. Finish, perhaps, with hot chocolate brownie and peanut butter ice cream. An individual and instructive wine list brings fine growers to the table. Bottles start from £15.95.
.:kentandkentish:.
Set in pretty gardens in a peaceful location on the outskirts of town, this country-house hotel is based around a lovely Jacobean manor. The restaurant - a dinner-only affair - is formally laid with white linen and high-backed chairs, set to a backdrop of oak beams, inglenook fireplaces and evening candlelight. Walls are hung with original art, and there are carved pillars dating back to 1627. But there's nothing remotely historic about the cooking. The accomplished modern British repertoire - driven by a commitment to quality local seasonal produce, including ingredients from the hotel's kitchen garden - comes fashionably dotted with European influences. Try breast of pheasant with parsnip mash and a port, chestnut and cranberry jus, or fillet of Miller's 30-day matured Aberdeen Angus, served with blue cheese butter, roasted pumpkin, a bacon wafer and crushed mustard seeds.
.:kentandkentish:.
Lovely Jacobean manor situated in a peaceful location on the outskirts of town. Bedrooms in the original house are traditionally furnished whereas the rooms in the courtyard buildings are more modern; all are equipped to a high standard. Public rooms include a smart bar, a lounge and a restaurant that utilises local organic produce. An impressive spa facility is housed in converted barn buildings in the grounds.
.:kentandkentish:.
Set in The Heart of White Cliffs Country, this 17th Century Manor House Hotel with Restaurant and Spa is simply beautiful. Luxurious bedrooms have antique four-poster beds, vaulted beamed ceilings and some rooms afford distant views of the English Channel. The restaurant noteworthy in its own right is mentioned in many major food and hotel guides and serves some of the finest cuisine in Kent.

The Spa which is set in the landscaped grounds at Walletts Court, houses an indoor pool, sauna, steam room, hydrotherapy spa, a fitness room and outside is an all weather tennis court. Just over a mile away is St. Margarets Bay with its stunning views to the French coastline. Relaxed and secluded, yet only 3 miles from Dover, Walletts Court really is the perfect hotel in which to stay if you are touring The Garden of England, starting your Continental holiday early with a night or two before crossing the Channel, playing golf on one of the championship courses in the area or just spending some time relaxing in luxurious surroundings. B&B from 45 pp, Dinner from 20.00 Rooms 2 twin, 9 double, 4 four-poster/suite all ensuite, AA 3 star, 3 rosette, Open all year.
.:kentandkentish:.
A glorious retreat close to Canterbury in the heart of white cliffs country. Wallett's Court is owned and run by the Oakley family, who first discovered the building, near derelict, on a summer's day in 1975. It was listed as the Manor of Westcliffe in the Domesday Book, and its history embraces such luminaries as Bishop Odo of Bayeux, Queen Eleanor of Castille, historian Edward Gibbon, Admiral Lord Aylmer and Prime Minister William Pitt. Today, Wallett's Court is a family home and country house hotel with 16 large, comfortable bedrooms.

The style is homely; you can settle in the old leather sofa by a blazing fire, hear the grandfather clock ticking or relax in the conservatory. The indoor pool, sauna, steam and fitness rooms, as well as the luxurious health spa housed within a Kentish barn, add an attractive dimension to the hotel. As, indeed, does its location: close to Canterbury and on the doorstep of the Continent - the ever-expanding Cruise Terminal is only four miles away. The surrounding area is designated as being of Outstanding Natural Beauty. A mile away is St Margaret's Bay, and on a clear day you can see France. History enthusiasts can visit Leeds Castle, Canterbury Cathedral and the secret wartime tunnels of Dover Castle.
.:kentandkentish:.
This Grade II listed house was found in ruins in the late 70’s by the Oakley family, who thankfully picked it up and put it back on its feet. In the main house the Jacobean staircase leads to one of the three traditional 4-poster bedrooms and across the courtyard there are 14 contemporary rooms housed in converted Kentish hay barns. On top of excellent hospitality there is a spa complete with hydrotherapy pool and treatment cabins set in the woods. The restaurant is deservedly popular locally and local ingredients are important - try the St Margaret's Bay lobster or Romney Marsh lamb. You can practice clay pigeon shooting with a professional or have a round of golf atop the White Cliffs or simply relax here for a day or two before heading over to France.
.:kentandkentish:.
Wallett's Court is one of those quintessential English houses that feels uniquely lived-in. It's a lovely seventeenth-century residence not far from Dover's white cliffs, and it holds a special place in the annals of The Mobile Food Guide since it was the very first establishment to receive a full published review. The hotel's in-house spa is in tune with current trends, but the rest of the place is much as before. Guests can sometimes glimpse the English Channel from their bedrooms windows, and there are also pleasing views of the Kent countryside from the dining room.

Chef/patron Chris Oakley recently bowed out of the kitchen and handed over the reins to Stephen Harvey, who is following in his mentor's footsteps. Raw materials from the 'Garden of England' and supplies from elsewhere are used for a repertoire of dishes with a modern slant. Menus glide along with the seasons. In spring, there might be roast rack of new season's Romney Marsh lamb with mushroom duxelle, sweetbreads and Madeira jus, while autumn could see the arrival of roast loin of wild boar with pickled white cabbage, sautéed Bramley apple and Tewkesbury mustard velouté. On the fish front, expect inventive ideas such as confit of brill, pan-fried in goose dripping with 'lie de vin' sauce, while desserts have spanned everything from gingerbread crème brûlée to poached pear with hot-spiced Pinot Noir and blackberries.

The atmosphere is a relaxed as ever, service is still 'swan-like' and the extensive wine list is a very decent collection of respectable names (20 are available by the glass).
.:kentandkentish:.
This lovely old country manor house, mentioned in the Domesday Book, is set in beautiful grounds near to Dover, and is a celebration of the Elizabethan era. Built in 1627, Walletts Court Hotel features a carved porch, original wall painting, even a priesthole, and many historical associations, its homely lounge with open fire, sofas, grandfather clock and piano complement the nearby conservatory popular for pre-dinner cocktails. The award-winning cuisine, chosen with a Jacobean flavour, offers excitingly varied menus in the beamed candlelit restaurant. Bedrooms are divided between the main house and converted barns whose comfortably furnished rooms are named according to original usage such as 'Dairy' and 'Stable'.
.:kentandkentish:.
Check yourself in for a treat-filled weekend at this charming little hotel, restaurant and spa combo. Set in a converted medieval barn, the beamed dining room has been carefully restored, its traditional features enhanced by proper linen and tableware. Menus are primarily based on local, organic produce and change frequently, always including excellent fish and seafood. Kentish woodpigeon and hare, as well as venison and wild boar from Wadhurst Park are seasonal highlights, treated expertly by the innovative but classically trained chef. Best in winter, when candles and open fires lend a warming glow.
.:kentandkentish:.
It wasn’t the response I’d expected when I’d phoned to book a post-new year bolt hole last month. “We’re very busy around new year,” said the receptionst, “but I could put you in the hut.” It was, she hastened to add, a very nice hut — and as I’d heard very nice things about Wallett’s, and liked the idea of nice walks along the cliffs by Dover, I went for it. It was, as Chris Tarrant might say, the right answer. The “hut” looked from the outside like a garden shed on stilts beside the car park. But inside it was a cosy double room with a small gallery with a comfy mattress for a third person.

The “hut” is one of Wallett’s Court’s 17 en suite rooms, the majority being in the main house — parts of which date back to the 11th century when William the Conqueror’s half brother Odo was in residence — while some are in a converted barn. The feel is rural-but-smart, great for a weekend. Some rooms have four-posters with styles that range from tastefully antique to contemporary Noughties. Inside the main house there are timber beams and exposed brick walls, while on the first floor landing original painted frescoes on the plasterwork date to the early 1600s and beyond.

Blowing off the festive season cobwebs was easy. After a good two-hour walk past Second World War gun emplacements along the cliffs to Dover, with France visible across the Channel, I was ready for a soak in the spa’s hot tub and then for dinner. My honeyed fig and Vulscombe goat’s cheese starter was bland, but the main course of roasted loin of cod with tempura vegetables and chilli and ginger jam filled me so sufficiently that I skipped pud, even though the glazed coconut brûlée definitely had my name on it. The next morning I had one of the best breakfasts I can remember, followed by an hour’s reflexology massage (£25) in the spa, which was relaxing but could have been a bit more forceful, although maybe that’s just my masochistic side. I left full of beans and ready to face 2005.
.:kentandkentish:.
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Sunday 8 March 2009

Read's











.:kentandkentish:.
"Restaurant with rooms: best of breed." Man of Kent
.:kentandkentish:.

Which? Good Food Guide 2009
Before crossing the threshold of this ‘lovely building’ one can tell this restaurant-with-rooms is a place of serious intent and high standards, for the gardens are beautifully kept. They also contribute some of the kitchen’s fine vegetables – ingredients are the defining element here – and the menu, too, is appealing, with presentation as spot-on as the youthful service.

David Pitchford’s technical skills are impressive; he likes to keep things simple, using careful balance and pretty much faultless composition to make an impact. And make an impact he does. Witness a lunch that began with the simplicity of sautéed soft herring roes on toast and rich chicken liver parfait. Flavours were then built up robustly in main courses, partnering crispy pork belly with black cabbage, honey-roasted turnips and apple purée, and thornback ray with rocket, gherkins and caperberry dressing.

Dinner has brought praise for Mongomery Cheddar soufflé on smoked haddock in a creamed sauce, and pan-fried red mullet with leaf spinach, pan-roasted potatoes and a Seville orange and thyme sauce. Attentive effort pays off in fine desserts, too, such as a dark chocolate tart with its crisp pastry and prune and Armagnac ice cream.

The impressive, extensive wine list is high on quality and generously inclusive outside France, which remains, however, its main port of call. ‘Best Buys’ offer a useful, edited version for those on a budget. House wines are £16.
.:kentandkentish:.
AA Restaurant
Set in an elegant Georgian manor house, surrounded by 4 acres of tranquil gardens and grounds and its own walled kitchen garden, Read's Restaurant (with rooms) boasts six individually designed bedrooms tastefully furnished in period style, complemented by an elegant drawing room and the grand, spacious restaurant.

Here you will find distinctive cooking of passion and simplicity using home-grown herbs and vegetables in dishes that make fine use of local game and fish fresh from the quayside at nearby Whitstable and Hythe. Modern British cuisine is the order of the day, with dinner a grander affair than lunch. The menu offers an impressive choice of dishes with detailed descriptions and little gems of quotations to accompany them, like the immortal words of Miss Piggy ... 'Never eat more than you can lift'.

With that in mind, you could try the seven-course tasting menu, or order from the appealing carte. Expect the likes of hot mature Montgomery cheddar soufflé set on glazed smoked haddock in cream sauce, or fillet of Scottish beef with sweetheart cabbage, roasted salsify and shallot jus, while white peach soufflé with vanilla ice cream, raspberry coulis and home-made shortbread might feature at dessert. The equally accomplished wine list has an extensive choice (over 250 wines) with many heavyweights and a good selection by the glass, too.
.:kentandkentish:.
squaremeal.co.uk
Since the 1980s David and Rona Pitchford have run the best sort of neighbourhood restaurant; a move a few years ago to a covetable Georgian manor house in Faversham only emphasised what they do so well. Cosily domestic yet with hints of the seriousness of the cooking to come (proper napery, delicate tulip-shaped wine glasses, and a wine list stuffed with interesting bottles), a thoughtful menu has a sensibly contained choice of six starters and similar number of main courses, the dishes built around the concept that seasons matter. This is very assured cooking rooted in classic French techniques, but given a personal spin, a lot of thought going into harmonious flavour combinations such as a medallion of thinly sliced foie gras with own-cured thinly sliced duck breast and citrus infused rhubarb, and roast fillet of sea bass on a purée of Jerusalem artichoke with herb gnocchi, girolles and light chorizo velouté.
.:kentandkentish:.
The Guardian (22-May-2004)
First impressions: We were proudly informed on driving into Faversham that this was the 'market town of kings' and there was certainly a regal air as we approached the listed Georgian building. After regretting not bringing the 4x4 and green wellingtons, we were pleased to discover that Reads has a refreshingly informal feel. With no official check in and a friendly greeting from the owner, it felt like visiting family friends. We were reminded to help ourselves from the fully stocked pantry and to leave our shoes outside the door to be cleaned.

What are the rooms like? With its antique furniture and paintings dating back to the 1800s, our room resembled a glossy spread from House&Garden and, as if to prove the point, copies of the magazine are neatly arranged by the window to flick through over a glass of sherry. In keeping with the intimate setting there are only six rooms; ours, called Chestnut, had a good view of the grounds. The bed test: Despite the furious winds rattling the shutters, it was easy to drift off underneath sumptuous cotton sheets.

Owner and chef David Pitchford has been in the business for over 20 years and sources fresh local produce to complement the herbs and vegetables grown in the garden. Popular dishes include lobster tortellini and roast seabass with herb gnocchi. Rona's home-made chocolates with coffee add a further personal touch. Canterbury and Whitstable are less than 15 minutes away, Leeds Castle and Dover under 45 minutes.
.:kentandkentish:.
The Telegraph (13-Jun-2003)
Mr DB's recommendation is enigmatic: "This one will cost you a little more than you usually pay," he writes. Even so, it isn't exactly a doddle booking dinner, b & b here for a Saturday night - I get lucky only because someone's cancelled. "All our rooms are large . . . and they're all gorgeous," purrs the receptionist. She's still purring when we arrive at Read's Restaurant with Rooms, a manor house verging on a stately pile on the outskirts of Faversham. Up the wide staircase we go to an exceptionally large room where the lamps are lit, even though it's not yet dark. "Come down early before it gets too busy," she advises, patting my husband's arm.

Actually we've got a room and a half because the door from the landing leads into our very own short hallway, with bathroom to the left and bedroom to the right. Everything's matching: wallpaper, roman blinds and curtains all have small red flowers on cream. There's a genteel little sofa too: "If only this wasn't so hard, the room would be perfect," sighs my husband, though he's the sort who likes loads of squashy cushions. I like the sofa though - the fact it's there - also the decanter of sherry, the Penhaligon toiletries and the copies of Homes & Gardens on the bedside table.

Down in the large drawing-room there's a sense of anticipation. Couples perch on the edges of chairs, discussing the idiosyncratic menu. Sorry Read's - if you've missed one of these works of art with Gerald Scarfe drawing on the cover, I just happened to pop a copy in my bag. I couldn't possibly memorise all the bons mots, not to mention the food . . . For example, "hand-rolled potato gnocchi with new season Owens Court asparagus and wild mushrooms" (my husband's choice) is followed by a quote from G K Chesterton: "Music with dinner is an insult to both the cook and the musician." There's a reverential air in the restaurant, where we're greeted by starched white cloths on the tables, and small cups of intensely flavoured pea and tarragon soup.

Dinner proper (for me) begins with Parma ham with vegetable crostini, reggiano parmesan and rocket salad - a still life with wilted greens stacked up in the middle of very thin slices of ham, accompanied by a quote from Gandhi: "If we chose the right diet what an extraordinary small amount would suffice." Next I have a simple main course of "roasted breast of free-range organic chicken with buttered leeks and wild spring mushrooms in a creamed sauternes wine sauce", accompanied by a lovely Churchillian quote (see end of piece). The chicken is perfection . . . but, alas, just too much for me, though, always prepared to make an idiot of myself, I ask if I can have a doggie bag. My husband mutters something like "Think of the starving masses" but I prefer the waiter's smile as he returns with a neat, silver-foil-wrapped packet. "How kind of you . . . thank you." My husband, meanwhile, is enjoying a portion of "roast fillet of turbot with crushed new potatoes, fresh asparagus, warm vinaigrette of Whitstable cockles" . . . and a quote from Miss Piggy: "Never eat more than you can lift.

Puds are enticingly different. My husband opts for the Gerald Ford - coffee bavarois with pistachio biscotti and a chilled bitter lemon orange cappuccino ("Eating and sleeping are a waste of time"), while I fancy Read's lemon tart with fresh raspberry sauce and a quote from Pepys: "Strange to see how a good dinner reconciles everyone." But I fail again . . . and once again the waiter is proffering silver foil. "Would you like your little parcels put in the fridge until you leave?" he asks. I love it. A smart restaurant, a diner who's putting them to the test - and a waiter with a smile that will take him far. Back upstairs, the bed has been turned down, naturellement. Breakfast . . . and here's that Churchill quote: "My wife and I tried to breakfast together but we had to stop or our marriage would have been wrecked." Needless to say, this repast is all we could wish for. This is a treat and a half of a hotel.
.:kentandkentish:.
The Independent (6-Jul-2001)
It's not trendy or posh and it doesn't have a famous chef, but what makes Read's special is superb, nostalgia-inducing dishes. It's years since I've been a prodigal daughter, but though I'm now almost grown up and we can all go out together without embarrassing each other, eating out close to the parental home is still a novelty. "What do you want to go to the pub for?" they'd ask as we tried to slip out for ciggies and crisps, "the food's better here." This time an incitement came at the end of one of the regular bulletins from east Kent: "Julia's getting married again; Graham's still looking for a job; no, his father never came out of hospital, the funeral's next week; the farm shop has a fish stall outside, oh, and Read's, that nice restaurant in Faversham we told you about, has moved into the house where your brother's friend – what was his name? – used to live." "Why don't you take us?" added my dad on the extension.

Though the former supermarket it inhabited was unassuming, Read's always rated very high in the food guides for classical French cooking with an English sensibility. After 25 years of being quietly appreciated, David and Rona Pitchford have moved into a more alluring building on the outskirts of Faversham. Brogdale, the national apple collection, is just outside the town, there are fruit farms all around, and rampant greenery overwhelms everything except church towers and the white cowls of oast houses converted from hop drying into homes. This corner of countryside, so close to France but determinedly English, seems at least 20 years behind the times.

Although it has become a restaurant with rooms, with a gravel sweep up to the handsome door of the Georgian house and a lawn with a majestic cedar of Lebanon, Read's has no airs and graces. Front of house staff were all women, and it was relaxed enough for my mum to overlook my plimsolls, although I'd braced myself for her to say, "oh darling, couldn't you have found something less scruffy". Then again, I was paying.

One of the first joys was finding nostalgia-inducing soft herring roe, which mum used to give us for tea, on the lunch menu. On a thick, circular slice of granary toast, with lots of finely chopped parsley, this was simply heaven. Little crab cakes in a creamy-golden chive-speckled sauce with diamonds of tomato flesh, and a plate of Parma ham with dinky crostini were less rare but put together with unusual delicacy.

The fact that Read's has a very good wine list, with edited highlights at the front, and several half bottles, was perhaps slightly wasted on my parents. "Let's have some house wine," commanded my dad, for whom quality is less important than, if not quantity, then guaranteed supply. His basic requirement was initially exceeded by sharing a half bottle of Sancerre with me. My mother doesn't drink, but was also feeling at home. "Is that the house labrador?" she murmured, looking fondly at a black dog in the adjacent sitting room.

After these relatively left-field starters, it was back to the Anglo-French mainstream for a tidily spread deck of pink lamb slices, on ratatouille with a rich, reduced tomato base, green beans and the best bit on the side – a ramekin of dauphinoise potatoes. I could have done with less of the "rosemary jus": a thickened brown stock. The other two mains had similar, though differently flavoured, sauces as their least distinguished feature; it was like accessorising each dish with sturdy brown brogues.

Crisp duck was kept company by butter beans so plump they were pot-bellied, baby onions and mange tout; the vegetables were given an orangey Mediterranean tan by what seemed to be chorizo oil. Salmon came on a huge circular pat of parsleyed mash and, possibly, bits of bacon in the meaty red wine sauce. No good for non meat-eaters, but a generous and well-balanced combination for omnivores. Thanks to the range of half bottles we could have red wine with these. "Don't give any more to her," dad implored the waitress as she approached me with the bottle. Not from any belated attempted to stop me becoming a lush, but to safeguard his own second glass.

Similar dishes on the dinner menu – which makes lunch wonderful value – each come with a quote from, among several others, Brillat-Savarin and AA Milne. "Music with dinner is an insult to both the cook and the musician" according to GK Chesterton, underneath seafood mousse with asparagus and smoked salmon butter sauce. The not-known-for-being-quotable Duke of Edinburgh's "I never see any plain cooking, all I get is fancy stuff," accompanies potted Whitstable crabmeat.

Read's is not plain, nor is it fancy. Sure-fire results are achieved by wonderful local ingredients – fish and seafood from Whitstable, the asparagus and soft fruit – being treated with delicacy and skill by an experienced chef who knows when to stop interfering, and, if anything, holds back on seasoning. Thanks to his even-handedness, dishes show ensemble playing at its best, not the too-common dominance of luxury protein at the expense of vegetables. Puddings resist the temptation to show off. What could be nicer than raspberries – locally-grown – in a brandy snap basket with home made raspberry ripple ice cream? An unsupported crème brulée was firm enough to bear a fragrant peach which blushingly interposed itself between the crème and a gauzy brulée coating. Chocolate tart, which left M&S's standing, came with milk sorbet. It revealed why one of Read's best loved dinner puddings is the "Chocoholics Anonymous" plate.

Service is conducted at a pace that suits those who don't have commitments in the afternoon. We ran out of time before we'd had coffee, poured from a silver pot. But brandy snaps, fudge and Mint Imperials came with a bill, that at £30 a head, meant we didn't need sweetening. It was the ideal place to turn the tables and take my parents. I was the youngest customer by some years; "the clientele's rather ancient," crowed dad looking round the lovelier of the two fully occupied dining rooms at his contemporaries. "You are keeping up your pension contributions, aren't you?" "Yes, dad." "Because you'd be amazed how quickly you find you need one." Not too long then before I become a lunchtime regular at Read's.
.:kentandkentish:.
A: Macknade Manor, Canterbury Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 8XE
M:
Google Map
W:
reads.com
E:
enquiries@reads.com
F: (01795) 591200
T: (01795) 535344
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